Bay of Islands guide: cruises, Russell, Waitangi and where to base yourself

The Bay of Islands is a big, sheltered bay on Northland’s east coast, scattered with islands, inlets and beaches, and it is where much of New Zealand’s modern history began. In a couple of days you can cruise out to the Hole in the Rock, stand where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed, and eat fish and chips on the waterfront of the country’s first European town.

It is also warmer and more relaxed than most of the country, which makes it a great first stop heading north from Auckland. Here is how to plan a first visit. Prices are in NZD from operators’ own websites, as at November 2026.

Paihia, Russell or Kerikeri: where to base yourself

Paihia is the main hub. Most Fullers GreatSights cruises leave from Paihia Wharf, and Waitangi is a walk or short drive away.

Russell across the water is the more atmospheric choice. It was New Zealand’s first permanent European settlement and seaport (Tourism New Zealand). In the early 1800s it had such a rough reputation for whalers and sailors that it was known as the “hellhole of the Pacific”. Today it is a quiet village of heritage buildings and a waterfront strand. Fullers cruises pick up at Russell too, about 10 minutes after leaving Paihia.

Kerikeri, about 24 km north of Paihia, is the bigger town, with more shops and services. It makes sense if you are touring further north.

Cruises: which one to choose

Fullers GreatSights runs the main scheduled cruises. The three most first-timers look at:

Hole in the Rock Dolphin Cruise. The most popular trip heads out to Motukōkako, the island with the famous arch, looking for dolphins on the way. Fullers says it offers a free trip if no marine mammals are seen, subject to its terms. Between September and May it leaves Paihia at 8:30 am and 2 pm (Russell 8:40 am and 2:10 pm). From June to August there is one departure at 10 am.

Day in the Bay. The longest cruise follows the historic Cream Trip route around the islands, and adds the Hole in the Rock, a stop at Otehei Bay and boom-netting. It leaves Paihia at 10 am. From 26 October to 24 December 2026 it runs on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays, then daily from 26 December 2026 to 31 March 2027.

R. Tucker Thompson. A tall ship sail where you can take the helm or hoist the sails, with morning tea and a barbecue lunch on the day trip. There is also a late afternoon sunset sail.

Insider tip: book the 8:30 am Hole in the Rock departure on your first full day. If the weather turns later in your stay, you have already done the big one, and you still have the afternoon for Waitangi.

The pier at Paihia. Photo: Prof.Chen Hualin via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0).

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

The Waitangi Treaty Grounds, just north of Paihia, is where the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed, and the Waitangi National Trust describes it as New Zealand’s most important historic site. Give it at least half a day.

Tickets from 1 October 2026:

• International adult: $78
• International youth: $39
• New Zealand resident adult: $39
• Children 12 and under: free

Tickets are valid for two consecutive days, and include a 50 minute guided tour, a 30 minute Māori cultural experience, and entry to the two museums, Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi and Te Rau Aroha Museum. The site cafe was closed when we checked, with a coffee cart open from 10 am to 3 pm, so bring a snack.

Russell: what to see

Russell is small enough to explore on foot in a couple of hours. From Tourism New Zealand:

• Christ Church, the oldest existing church in New Zealand. Its walls still carry musket ball holes.
• Pompallier Mission, built in 1841 to 1842, the oldest surviving Roman Catholic building in New Zealand.
• The Duke of Marlborough Hotel, which holds New Zealand’s first liquor licence.
• Flagstaff Hill, a short climb for a view over the bay.

The first capital of New Zealand was not Russell itself, but nearby Okiato, which is where the vehicle ferry lands.

Getting there and getting around

From Auckland: Paihia is about 226 km and 3 hours 15 minutes by car (routing estimate without stops). Most people drive, because a car makes Kerikeri, Waitangi and Cape Reinga much easier. Our car rental guide explains what to book, and the Bay of Islands is the first leg of our 10-day North Island road trip.

Paihia to Russell, on foot: the Northland Ferries passenger ferry takes 15 minutes, at $19.40 adult return, $10.80 child and $42.80 family.

Paihia to Russell, by car: take the vehicle ferry from Opua to Okiato. It runs as a shuttle about every 10 minutes during the day from 6:10 am, with a crossing time of about 10 minutes. A car under 6 m costs $19.80 one way, the same as a small two-berth campervan. Opua is about 7 minutes’ drive from Paihia.

Day trip: Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach

Cape Reinga, at the top of the North Island, is a long but rewarding day trip.

On a tour: Fullers GreatSights runs a Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach tour for $225 adult ($112.50 child, $487.50 family). It takes about 11 hours, leaving Paihia between 7 and 7:30 am. It runs daily from September to May, and from June to August on Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. The tour drives along Ninety Mile Beach and includes the option to try sand-boarding on the dunes.

Driving yourself: it is about 213 km and 3 hours each way from Paihia (routing estimate without stops), so that is a very long day. At the cape, DOC’s Cape Reinga Lighthouse Walk is 800 m one way, about 10 minutes, on a paved path to the lighthouse. Cape Reinga, Te Rerenga Wairua, is a highly significant place for Māori, and DOC asks visitors not to eat food there (drinking water is fine). Tapotupotu Bay, a short gravel drive away, has toilets and is the place for lunch. There are no rubbish bins, so take everything away with you. Do not drive a rental car on Ninety Mile Beach unless your rental agreement clearly allows it; the tour is the simpler way to see the beach.

Cape Reinga lighthouse. Photo: Guillaume Meurice via Pexels.

When to go and how long to stay

Summer (December to February) is warm and busy, with the most cruise departures. Book cruises and accommodation early for the school holidays and Waitangi Day on 6 February, when the Treaty Grounds host big commemorations. Spring and autumn are quieter and often still warm enough for swimming. Winter (June to August) has fewer departures, but calmer crowds.

How long: two full days covers one cruise and Waitangi. Three days lets you add Russell properly, Kerikeri or Cape Reinga. If you are coming from overseas, check whether you need an NZeTA before you fly; our NZeTA guide explains how.